This is big brother Greg who has chosen a different path, as usual. He actually had the nerve to do what the rest of wanted to.....
Here are the details in narative form from the couragous driver/builder:
Okay, this is the little British Race Car
Details:
6 point cage
Kirky stock car seat
Painted 1994 Ford 'Midnight Forest Green' to match the Bronco tow rig
(talk to my wife)
Engine:
18V 5 main 1800cc block bored .030 to 1842cc
JE Forged Pistons
Carrillo Rods
Crank reworked and hardened by a guy who used to build Formula Atlantic cranks
APT VP-16 vintage race cam
lightened and polished rockers
Mildly ported heads W/ twin 1 3/4" HS-6 SU carbs
Header and 2 1/2" exhaust system
The Plan
At Las Vegas the engine lost A BUNCH of power- lap times increase from 1:39's to 1:44's. Turns out we lost the contact on one of the points sets in the Mallory (I'm beginning to hate those guys.). Anyway, the head had an external crack and this motor was leaking oil like a sieve, so it was time to yank the motor. Honed and re-ringed, the bottom end is back together.
Go a fresh head from a guy in Colorado. This thing is highly ported, and looks like it runs about 12.5:1 CR. gonna need that 110 octane stuff now. We'll get it back together, and I hope to be out again in November.
Chassis:
Lowered about 3" (didn't measure from stock to the first
lowering job, second lowering job went from 7" to 5" at a standard
reference point.)
MGOC 1" Front Sway bar
5/8" adjustable rear bar
Revalved front lever shocks
Spax Telescopic rear conversion
The Plan
While the motors out, I'm getting a front crossmember reworked to stuff it up under the body better, This will require I modify the steering rack to get the steering shaft ended up in the correct location, and modify the front unibody frame extensions to clear the rack, as it's moving up with both the upper and lower control arm pivot points. The intent is that this change will let me move the inboard lower control arm pivot up (away from the ground ) an inch for better negative camber gain in roll.
Simultaneously i'm having a set of new kingpins manufactured to my specification. These new kinpins are kind of a cross between an MGA and an MGB, and will let the swivle axles rest 1.25" above the stock lower outboard control arm pivot point. This change is two fold- it will let me have a longer than stock kingpin, and move the lower outboard pivot point closer to the ground. Both will contribute to better negative camber gain in roll. I know this change will significantly increase bump steer. The first thing i'll do is swap the steering arms side for side and flip the tie rod ends from the top of the steering arm to the bottom. This should improve the situation some. Second plan of attack will be to bend the steering arms or, worst case scenario, need to fab some 'specials' that locate the height correctly.
Greg's First Law of Suspension Redesign: Get cozy with a machinist. This IS going to cost you
Geez, I do seem fixated on this negative camber gain in roll, and for good reason. If I understand tires correctly, this will buy me a significant increase in front tire grip in a turn, while decreasing actual body roll with respect to the A-arm pivots. Better grip in a turn means a higher exit speed. Higher exit speeds mean lower lap times. Lower lap time move you up through the field.
I also know I'm going to need to have a quick way to adjust camber at the track. I'm working on two different ideas- one where the lever shock itself moves on a set of slots, and another where a set of fabricated upper arms will carry a threaded rod end that moves in and out to adjust static camber. Sigh- see Greg's first law
Drive Train
Transmission
Close ratio 4 synchro box (Factory casting from 68-80)
Tube type rear axle W/ open 3.90 rear gear ratio
The plan
No change to the gearbox
Swap the 'Tube' type for an earlier 'Banjo' type rear axle. The tube type is a salisbury type with ratios of 3.07, 3.31, 3.7, &3.9 available, . Ratio changes force removal of the axle and bench installation of the different gears The Banjo is a Hotchkiss type with ratios of 3.90, 4.1, 4.3, amd 4.5 available. I'm currently building a 4.3 with a clutch type posi system. I ordered the posi from B & G in the United Kindom- they and a quaiffe type were about 70% of the cost of quaiffe type here in the US, and I haven't seen the clutch type for sale anywhere in the US.
Wheels and Tires
Factory Rostyles widened from 5" to 6"
195/55-14 Khumo V700 VictoRacers
The Plan
14 x 6" PanaSports
Offsets on the panasports was WAY different than would fit in the factory rear wheelhouse. We're not permitted to flare the fenders, so I'm changing to a 'wire wheel' rear end. these wre about 1 1/2" narrower than the disc wheel rear ends. Machining down the spline drive centerlock sections so they fit the hub of the Panasport.
Long term solution to this may be to open the hub bore on the wheels. But I coildn't bring myself to cut them before they got on the car.
Note to all potential Panasport purchasers- I no longer believe Panasports' fitment guide. SPECIFY WHAT OFFSET OR BACKSPACING YOU WANT to make certain the wheel fits.
Shown here with most of the family ready for a few laps in Vegas April 02'. He races with a vintage car club. Some very interesting competition too I might add.